Types of Indian Embroideries

Introduction

India is a diversified country having varied range of cultures and customs. The Indian art and craft have become world famous. There is huge examine of Indian embroidered garments. There is huge collection of embroideries done in India, here are few of them which have got more fame in terms of popularity in international store : -

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Zardozi embroidery

Zardozi work is an aged form of exaggeration basically done with gold or silver zari threads. It is also known as metal embroidery. Although now-a-days it is also done with colored metal threads. The word 'Zardozi' is derived by combining two words Zar and Dozi which in Persian language means gold and exaggeration respectively. Therefore it is clear that this art of exaggeration was originated in Persia which was bought to India by Moghuls. Initially it was done with real metal threads of gold and silver. It was done on clothes for the rich and royal, wall hangings, bedsheets, etc. In in the middle of the application of pearls and precious stones looks stunning on it. Basically it is done on silk, crepe, brocade and velvet fabrics. Zardozi exaggeration saw its decline during the reign of Aurangzeb. It was revived after the independence.

Zardozi work is an extension of zari exaggeration which is done with crochet hook. The exaggeration done gives the appearance of chain stitch. The things required for doing zardozi are beads, dabka, coiled wires, sequins, etc.

As zardozi is done with coiled metal wires studded with stones, beads, etc is heavy in weight therefore is done on fabrics that are thick and heavy like silk, velvet, stain, crepe, etc. Thus the option of fabrics is also royal and expensive. The form to be done is first traced on the fabric, then it is spread on the wooden frame. Further the exaggeration is done by picking up single thread in the needle and sewing it into the cloth. This art requires patience and is quite complicated. Expertise is required to do it properly.

Earlier zardozi was done on wearable garments and bedspreads in general for royal families. But now it has got into the reach of base people also. Clothes with zardozi are an integral part for any wedding or foremost functions as it depicts royalty. Apart from wearable garments, zardozi is also done on cushion covers, table cloths, wall hangings, fabric purses, etc. This exaggeration is a precious affair.

Mirror Embroidery

Mirror exaggeration is the specialty of Gujarat state. This work also originated in Persia during 13th century. Mirror work is never done alone, it is generally in mixture with other types of stitches or embroideries. This exaggeration is done with both large and small mirrors. Basically it was more utilized by Jats community. It is embroidered using colorful threads like red, green, blue, yellow, black, maroon, etc.

This art apart from Gujarat state is also practiced in neighboring state of Rajasthan and in appliqué art of Orissa. Many separate types of stitches like cross stitch, buttonhole stitch and satin stitch are used in its combination. This art is often done by the aid of engine embroidery, but in some places it is still done straight through hand work which is more time involving and a precious affair in comparison to the previous technique. The mirrors used are of separate shapes and sizes like round shape, solitaire shape, square shape, etc. However round shape is the most base shape of mirrors used in this form of embroidery.

Mirror work is done on separate fabrics and types of garments. Apart from ethnic garments it is crafted even on indo western clothes. It has huge examine in western countries. Mirror work is done on cushion covers, purses, bedsheets, curtains, wearable garments, wall hangings, attractive items, laces, etc. This exaggeration has also seen the limelight of international ramp shows too.

Kantha Embroidery

Kantha is the former form of exaggeration of West Bengal. It is running style of stitch. The exaggeration is done on many layers of cloth. It is done on quilts, bedsheets, blankets, saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc.

It is also known as 'Dorukha'. This word means making worn out garments into gorgeous garments. Therefore it is also known as recycling art. In earlier times the worn out silk or muslin clothes where used to be put in piles and stitched together. It is believed that its date of origin lies during the era of Lord Buddha. They used to drape themselves with rags of clothes that were stitched together.

The artists regularly exaggeration images of human beings, animals, flowers, geometric designs and mythological figures. generally the worker selects the frame of exaggeration to which they delineate to. There are separate types of kantha done- Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha and Oaar kantha.

Different types of patterns like jaal, folk life designs, dhan chori, etc are done in kantha embroidery. The rural women of West Bengal regularly do it on cotton saris with thread taken from the borders of the sari and done all over.

Chikankari Embroidery

The state of Uttar Pradesh especially the city of Lucknow is considered to be the hub of Chikankari embroidery. Chikankari is derived from the word Chakeen that means elegant patterns on the fabric which is a Persian word. Earlier it was done with white thread on muslin clothes. However now it is been done on varied types of fabrics like cotton, linen nylon, georgette, chiffon and synthetic fabrics. Apart from wearable garments it is also done on varied other things like curtains, bedsheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers.

Unlike earlier times it is not only done on white colored cloths but also fabrics of varied colors. But the thread used for the exaggeration is generally white. varied motifs are embroidered straight through it like floral motifs which contain flowers like rose, lotus, jasmine, creepers, etc.

There are many types of stitches used to make gorgeous chikankari exaggeration like chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and running stitch. The most gorgeous is the motif having form created in the form of net or jhali all over the garment by generating thread tension. Shadow work is also done by chikan exaggeration which is done on the opposite side of the garment.

There are three types of chikankari stitches ;

1) Jali work - It is done in the form of net form spread all over the fabric.

2) Flat stitches - The flat stitches are delicate and very fine stitch. It gives the look as if the exaggeration is itself the texture of the garment.

3) Embossed stitches - This stitch provides beaded type of look to the garment.

In international apparel store also the examine of chikankari embroidered garments have seen a steep rise. The artisans of Uttar Pradesh earn foreign currency for the country. Many high profile designers intricate this form of art in their collections.

Conclusion

India is very rich in terms of art and crafts because of separate communities and culture of its people. The above was just a see of four the many types of exaggeration art present in India. These arts have acclaimed international fame and are in great examine in western countries. After independence these arts were revived by the Indian government which improved the declining situation of the Indian embroideries. The main maintain came from the Indian government.

Types of Indian Embroideries

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